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2 Veneti for True Venetian

Tuesday, August 31st, 2010

There has been something of a recent Renaissance for Venetian cuisine in London, with Soho’s much hyped Polpo and its new sibling Polpetto offering tapas-sized portions of popular dishes. However if you’re looking for something altogether more substantial, 2 Veneti is the place to head.

Already well established in the top rank of what can be a highly competitive field, the cuisine at the restaurant belies the somewhat neutral decor. A range of succulent antipasti might include decadently creamy mozzarella or cucumber and crab salad, and the lamb ravioli should not be missed as a pasta course. There’s an excellent variety of both fish and meat for the secondi or main, with particular highlights including tender calves’ liver and fresh, vibrant sea bass – a particular house specialty, we are proudly informed.

As you might expect, the restaurant offers a great range of Venetian wines by both the glass and bottle, and a rich and full-bodied Chianti was the highlight of what we tried. A decadent glass of dessert wine to accompany moreish puddings such as chocolate salami is the perfect end to a lovely meal, and one that represents outrageously good value at £35 for 4 delicious courses.

One of the things that makes visiting 2 Veneti such a pleasure is the attention paid to all the little touches that normally get neglected in restaurants. The service, from natives of the Veneto region, finds just the right balance between friendly and familiar. The basket of Italian bread, an obligatory and often unnecessary addition to a meal, is here a genuine pleasure due to the impeccable quality of the focaccia; practically a meal in itself. And, if you’ve still got capacity at the end of the meal, a glass of the excellent Venetian grappa will round off a splendid evening more than pleasantly.

2 Veneti
10 Wigmore Street
London
W1U 2RD

Telephone: +44 (0)207 637 0789

Opening Times:

Lunch (Mon to Fri): 12.00 to 15.00
Dinner (Mon to Fri): 18.00 to 22.30 (Saturday ) lunch closed /Dinner 18:00 to 23:00

Closed Sundays


Throw Away The Key

Thursday, August 26th, 2010

The highly respected Malmaison group of hotels are synonymous with interesting and quirky buildings, such as a former Episcopal church in Glasgow and a converted bus and tram office in Leeds. However, the hotel in Oxford is in another class altogether, being set in a converted prison. While this leads to lots of jokes about a stay here being a sentence rather than a holiday, there’s no doubt that this is an excellent place to head to if you’re spending any time in Oxford. Situated in the new Castle development, it’s a short walk from the station or centre of town, making it a great base to explore the historic city.

From the striking architecture – skilfully integrating the original prison building into a modern luxury hotel – to droll touches such as recordings of Porridge playing in the public loos, it offers a simultaneous treat for lovers of quirky and unusual places to stay, and for anyone who just wants to ensure that they are going to have a nice time in a luxurious setting. The usual high-end features that you’d expect – decadent and exquisitely comfortable bedrooms, high-end rainfall showers and flatscreen TVs and DVD players – are all present and correct, whether you choose to stay in the converted cells in the House Of Correction (somewhat more sophisticated than they would have been when this was still a functioning jail, which it was up until 1996) or the more conventional newer rooms. There are also some lavish suites to be found in the so-called Governor’s House, suggesting at least one former inhabitant didn’t have it too bad.

Obviously one of the highlights of the Malmaison group are their much-acclaimed restaurants and bars, and the brasserie here, located in the former solitary confinement area, offers a good selection of British cuisine, which might include Valley smoke house smoked salmon or rabbit and baby leek terrine to start, followed by loin of lamb or Donald Russell 28-day aged steak for a main course, and then perfectly complemented by a decadent dessert such as the moreish chocolate and Muscavardo cake. A fine range of wines by the glass or bottle are on offer to suit the meal perfectly. There are also some extremely good value set meals, the costs of which depend on how many courses you have and whether they include wine or not.

It’s very hard to discuss this place without giving into bad puns, so I’ll leave out the ones about this being a captivating or arresting experience. Suffice it to say that the excellent setting, great accommodation and wonderful food make this one of the nicest hotel experiences you’re likely to enjoy in Oxford, or anywhere else for that matter.

For more information, please visit http://www.malmaison.com.


Sanderson Predicts

Friday, August 20th, 2010

If you expected the Sanderson Hotel in London – haunt of the fashion and media glitterati – to be on the bleeding edge with well-trained eyes and ears for predicting the next big thing then you’d be absolutely correct.

This is amply proved by their annual series of summer showcase gigs in their covered garden on Thursday evenings – presented in association with Beefeater Gin and Modular – which aim to highlight the latest and greatest in new and emerging talent. The hit rate so far is admirably high: Little Boots and Marina & The Diamonds were on the roster last summer and have since soared onto the mainstream scene. Back in June, Coco Sumner (Sting’s Daughter) performed an intimate acoustic set with her band I Blame Coco to rave reviews.

The night we attended saw hotly tipped singer-songwriter Rox perform for a packed courtyard. Rox, whose debut album Memoirs has attracted critical praise and strong commercial interest, wooed the room with singles including ‘I Don’t Believe’, ‘My Baby Left Me’ and ‘No Going Back’. It’s refreshing to write the words ‘it’s hard to categorise her style’, but I’d venture to say a cross between old-school Motown pop and something more modern, harder-edged. This songstress is the real deal with all the ingredients to cross that narrow bridge to superstardom: charisma, brio, sass – not to mention that voice!

And as you would expect from the Sanderson, the standard of food and drink on offer was nothing short of excellent. Beefeater was offered in well-priced (£8.50!) cocktail varieties. My eager guest opted for the ginger and pineapple martini, while I happily tucked into a ‘Bee Fest Martini’, a hat trick of mango puree, pink grapefruit juice and passion fruit syrup. The moreish bar snacks included an international medley of tapas size sharing plates including: mini chorizo in quince puree, rib eye steak skewers with peanut and chilli sauce and steamed buns with braised pork belly.

Perfect cocktail in one hand, Rox belting out the next big hit in the middle of this lush, under-lit garden. Just enough LA vibe for a stellar night out in London.

Sanderson Hotel
50 Berners Street
London
W1T 3NG

Tel – +44(0) 207 300 1400


Beauty In The Dark

Monday, August 2nd, 2010

Martin McDonagh’s reputation as both a playwright and filmmaker has grown immensely since the first production of his debut play in 1996. With the much acclaimed crime thriller In Bruges winning critical plaudits and awards by the bucketload, and with later plays such as The Pillowman and The Lieutenant Of Inishmore sealing his status as an enfant terrible of the theatre – a sort of Irish Quentin Tarantino of the stage – it makes a fascinating experience to revisit The Beauty Queen of Leenane which, in the Young Vic’s highly assured staging, reveals that McDonagh’s talent was evident from the beginning.

The set-up has nightmarish echoes of a bleaker, Irish Steptoe and Son. Maureen Folan, a plain, downtrodden virgin is living with her domineering, demanding mother Mag, whose most frequently voiced requests are for Complan, shortbread fingers and porridge. Maureen, who has only ever been kissed twice – ‘two men is two men too much!’ – has her head turned by the decent but somewhat diffident neighbour Pato Dooley, who she attends a party with. Mag, however, sees nothing in her daughter’s potential relationship but her own abandonment, and schemes to plot its downfall. Things go very, very badly wrong.

In the first half, it seems faintly unclear as to where the play is going. Nods to Beckett and Pinter (and possibly even a touch of Tennessee Williams) jostle alongside digs at Irish convention, as Pato’s idiotic younger brother Ray offers his lack of surprise that a nearby priest has had an illegitimate child  – ‘now if he’d punched that babby in the head, that’d be news!’ However, in the second and superior half, beginning with a bravura one-scene monologue as Pato attempts to compose two letters, McDonagh ramps up the tension and black comedy to near-unbearable levels, as audience sympathy begins to shift and turn.

The Young Vic’s fine production, more than capably directed by Joe Hill-Gibbins, boasts an authentically grim set (designed by Ultz, who did similar wonders with the set for the recent Jerusalem) that perfectly captures the horrible atmosphere that the protagonists find themselves in. It’s extremely well acted by Rosaleen Linehan as Mag and Susan Lynch as Maureen, although Lynch is far too striking to fully convince as a woman described as plain, and David Ganly offers excellent support as the decent Pato.

Given the warmth of the audience reaction, there seems little doubt that this will be a sell-out hit, and so you’d be well advised to get to the Young Vic to see this fine production sooner rather than later.

Until 21st August. Young Vic, The Cut, London SE1. www.youngvic.org


Divine deVille

Tuesday, July 27th, 2010

Whether you’re after inexpensive and unpretentious street food or a more epicurean and gourmet experience – heading to Marylebone is certain to satisfy every tastebud and dining desire. Top branch of the culinary tree is the 2 AA-rosette winning deVille Restaurant, located in the luxurious environs of the discreetly upmarket Mandeville hotel. Attracting a discerning clientele – those who know their Stinking Bishop from their Old Spot – as befits the British emphasis in the menu, this excellent establishment is a firm favourite amongst locals and visitors alike.

Somewhat at odds with the traditional nature of the extremely British cuisine is the décor of the deVille Restaurant. Designed by celebrity golden boy Stephen Ryan, he has transformed this staid Georgian townhouse into a tasteful riot of chocolate and fuchsia damask, 1960s Perspex chandeliers, with the odd Biedermeier thrown in for good measure. A design contradiction nearly as delightful as the food, the deVille is Regency rock and roll at its finest.

On a recent visit, we knew we were in safe hands from the start of the evening, having been offered a glass of one of the better house champagnes I’ve had the honour of tasting recently, Thienot Brut. The wine list is comprehensive and well-vetted, from their excellent Berry Bros house, to the more esoteric offerings further down the list, including some vintage ports and dessert wines.

The piece de resistance lies in the main courses, where, if you are ingenious enough to order the steak – from Rowley’s of Jermyn St – you’ll find it brought to your table on a kind of samovar, with the blue cheese and garlic butter sauce gently sizzling away; a terribly appropriate complement to the tender and succulent – dare I say exquisite – meat. Unlimited French fries or chips serve as a more than adequate side order.

For dessert, there is a fine selection of English cheeses, including a surprisingly super Cheddar, and a temptingly decadent variety of puddings. My recommendation: chocolate mousse with a delicately flavoured but absolutely sublime lavender ice-cream.

Return visit to deVille? You couldn’t pay me not to.

deVille Restaurant
The Mandeville Hotel
8-14 Mandeville Place, Marylebone, London W1U 2BE
+44 (0)207 935 4040

www.mandeville.co.uk/deVille-Restaurant.hotel


Lovebox

Friday, July 23rd, 2010

East London’s Lovebox festival has rapidly established itself as one of the capital’s premier events, offering a combination of eclectic music, a groovin’ atmosphere and a genuinely innovative spirit. Founded in 2002 by Groove Armada with the intention of creating a proper urban festival, it has now expanded to a three-day jamboree, with a line-up this year including: Grace Jones, Roxy Music and Bow’s very own Dizzee Rascal.

It isn’t at all unusual to see a line-up that combines world famous rock stars with acts who have only just begun their careers, but the good-humoured vibe and willingness of festival goers to take a chance on new artists, means you’re as likely to find your new music obsession at Lovebox as you are to catch up with an old favourite.

Highlights this year included Paloma Faith exhibiting her signature quirky dress sense and equally individual music to great acclaim. Given she was nearly in danger of being upstaged by a nearby ‘hotel’ featuring burlesque performances, this was no mean feat. She was soon followed by Mark Ronson with his new band, The Business Intl. On the evidence of what was unveiled, it looks to be a natural step forward from his earlier covers album, Version, with less brass but a similar number of guest stars and 80s-influenced hits in waiting. Nick Rhodes and Simon le Bon – and then the entirety of Duran Duran – came on stage to perform two songs, the title track of Ronson’s new album, ‘Record Collection’, and then their debut single, ‘Planet Earth’.

The eagerly anticipated headliners were the ever-suave Bryan Ferry and Roxy Music. Rumours that they would be reforming for a new album proved incorrect – it will be a Ferry solo album, albeit with all the Roxy line-up (including Brian Eno) contributing in some capacity. Daringly they chose to play obscure album tracks for the first hour or so of the set, including epic versions of ‘A Song For Europe’ and ‘In Every Dream Home a Heartache’, before giving the crowd a dose of hits, getting the East London crowd to strut their stuff to ‘Jealous Guy’, ‘Love Is The Drug’, ‘Do The Strand’.

All in all – a fabulous event. Let’s hope Lovebox 2011 is similarly splendid stuff.


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