
Living in South London I find myself spoiled for choice when it comes to Indian food with a great selection of different cuisine styles from the Indian continent. What I do miss are the higher end establishments which boast a much more unique style and selection of dishes. Because of this I was very happy to recently visit to Moti Mahal in Covent Garden heartily suggested to me by a couple of colleagues.
What I found was perhaps one of the most memorable Indian meals I’ve had in quite some time. The restaurant itself has a very pleasant, contemporary look to it , obviously aiming for the more discerning clientele. The relaxed and intimate lounge area and bar is perfect for a cocktail before sitting down and navigating through the menu.
The menu’s concept consists of dishes found along the Grand Trunk Road, a 2500km highway built by the Emperor Sher Shah Suri in the 16th Century. With a span from Sonargon in Bengal to Peshwar on the Northwest frontier of Pakistan there is a huge scope for traditional dishes along the way.
The menu is presented in a tasting style where several dishes will be ordered to build up a varying and exotic mix of tastes. Several dishes seemed to leap out off the menu, particularly Sorpotel, a Goan dish with an intense flavour with wild boar stewed with chillies, cloves, garlic and vinegar along with the smoothness of the Murgh Nazkat from Punjab and its basil poppy seed, cracked pepper and dill.
Having sampled seven or eight dishes I have to say I was very impressed. Although each dish had a strong and vibrant taste, none overpowered the other. I was also pleased that rather than the starters and the obligatory poppadoms that we were offered a large board of fresh salad – again a nice touch and the perfect way to start a meal.
Chef Ani has obviously put a lot of effort into creating the menu, placing emphasis on the finest local and global organic produce as well as a more traditional style of preparation by adopting the use of the “Thatee Grill” – a hallmark of rural Indian cooking.
Prices are towards the higher side but admittedly this reflects very well on the creativeness and quality of the dishes themselves, service is smooth and very warm as well. I’m planning on returning very soon to Moti Mahal with some friends as I know they will not be disappointed.
45 Great Queen Street, London WC2 www.motimahal-uk.com