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Let Them Eat Cup Cake

Wednesday, March 10th, 2010

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Although I’m not usually a very sweet-toothed person, sometimes treats just jump out and grab your attention and this was exactly the case when I came across Mychelle’s Baketique housed in the eco-friendly  hotel Rafayel on The Left Bank. The very talented and creative Michelle Husserl honed her talents at London’s Le Cordon Bleu Institute and has recently opened the Baketique to fulfil her love of baking, and the treats on offer are very hard to resist and her client list including Jalouse, Whisky Mist and Eight members’ club shows the quality on offer.

With a huge range of products it’s not just cupcakes on offer with larger custom pieces available. Having sampled some of these delights I can see them going down very well for children’s (and grown up!) parties however I feel that there is the danger that will all the healthy options available including vegan, gluten free as well as fat and sugar free that the yummy cakes may have difficulty getting past the yummy mummys. Whatever you choose, it’ll be a pleasure.

Find out more at www.baketique.com


Sub-Continent Treasure

Monday, February 15th, 2010

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Living in South London I find myself spoiled for choice when it comes to Indian food with a great selection of different cuisine styles from the Indian continent. What I do miss are the higher end establishments which boast a much more unique style and selection of dishes. Because of this I was very happy to recently visit to Moti Mahal in Covent Garden heartily suggested to me by a couple of colleagues.

What I found was perhaps one of the most memorable Indian meals I’ve had in quite some time. The restaurant itself has a very pleasant, contemporary look to it , obviously aiming for the more discerning clientele. The relaxed and intimate lounge area and bar is perfect for a cocktail before sitting down and navigating through the menu.

The menu’s concept consists of dishes found along the Grand Trunk Road, a 2500km highway built by the Emperor Sher Shah Suri in the 16th Century. With a span from Sonargon in Bengal to Peshwar on the Northwest frontier of Pakistan there is a huge scope for traditional dishes along the way.

The menu is presented in a tasting style where several dishes will be ordered to build up a varying and exotic mix of tastes. Several dishes seemed to leap out off the menu, particularly Sorpotel, a Goan dish with an intense flavour with wild boar stewed with chillies, cloves, garlic and vinegar along with the smoothness of the Murgh Nazkat from Punjab and its basil poppy seed, cracked pepper and dill.

Having sampled seven or eight dishes I have to say I was very impressed. Although each dish had a strong and vibrant taste, none overpowered the other. I was also pleased that rather than the starters and the obligatory poppadoms that we were offered a large board of fresh salad – again a nice touch and the perfect way to start a meal.

Chef Ani has obviously put a lot of effort into creating the menu, placing emphasis on the finest local and global organic produce as well as a more traditional style of preparation by adopting the use of the “Thatee Grill” – a hallmark of rural Indian cooking.

Prices are towards the higher side but admittedly this reflects very well on the creativeness and quality of the dishes themselves, service is smooth and very warm as well. I’m planning on returning very soon to Moti Mahal with some friends as I know they will not be disappointed.

45 Great Queen Street, London WC2 www.motimahal-uk.com


2010 – The Year Ahead In Food

Monday, January 11th, 2010

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2010 is finally upon us, and is promising to be a good year in food. Towards the end of January, we do of course have the Michelin lists for the UK to look forward to, and the results will be as eagerly anticipated as ever. Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester is hotly tipped to upgrade from it’s “Rising Three” star status to become the second London venue to hold three stars. Apsley’s, under the guidance of Heinz Beck, is also tipped to receive recognition – from my own dining experiences at Apsley’s this will be a very well deserved award if successful. There are always a couple of surprises and it will be very interesting to see what’s in store for this year.

Moving on, 2010 promises some fantastic openings around town, such as the imminent launch of Gordon Ramsay’s Petrus, which has only existed in name since Marcus Wareing took over the helm at the Berkeley some time ago. Likewise, the Mandarin Oriental in Knightsbridge, featuring restaurants by highly acclaimed Brit superstar Heston Blumenthal and the 165 seat Bistro from NY super chef Daniel Boulud, promises a double delight for destination dining.

The French remain masters, and so Roux at Parliament Square, a new restaurant from Michel Roux Jnr in the Grade II listed premises of the Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors. will provide an interesting option. Panoramic views over Westminster Abbey and the Houses of Parliament, on top of the great cuisine, will enhance its status as a true destination restaurant.

Looking to the East, a second branch of Hakkasan in Mayfair is certainly a bold move. However, given the success of the two Nobus in such close proximity, it’s not such a bad idea. A relaunch of the short-lived but popular Kyashi on Upper St Martins Lane will offer a sushi bar under the watchful eye of chef Jacky Yu, as well as a more formal dining area with a champagne bar on the mezzanine level for some chilled drinks.

There is plenty more to come, including the long-awaited relaunch of the Savoy Hotel and its restaurants. Considering all this, it may just be time to get that cheap gym membership in place so that you can enjoy the boundless amount of culinary delights in store.


Fin de siecle

Wednesday, December 16th, 2009

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It occurred to me the other morning that not only are we heading to the end of another year but also the end of the decade. The “noughties” for me seem to have passed pretty damn quickly and it seems to me rather like the next decade is going to go just as quick. The end of this decade also signifies a 10 year milestone of my work on the restaurant scene, including nearly eight years at Quintessentially.

Looking back over the decade, the restaurant scene has evolved in a fascinating way. When I started, Jamie Oliver was a little known trainee, and Gordon Ramsay, the ex-head chef of Aubergine, was just beginning to make waves on the restaurant scene. Fast forward ten years and Jamie Oliver has become a huge success and gathered a reputation as a crusader for food education. His series Jamie’s School Dinners caught the attention of the Government and creating a huge amount of publicity at the time.

And Gordon Ramsay is, well, Gordon Ramsay. Although his star has slightly faded in the past year, there’s no doubt that he remains a highly astute businessman, a genuinely iconic public figure and a hugely talented chef. Expect 2010 to see a resurgence. We should also expect to see his one-time protege Marcus Wareing, another incredibly able chef, become as much of a household name as his mentor; his restaurant at The Berkeley is often described as the best in London, most notably by Harden’s Guide.

We’ve also seen Marco Pierre White reduce his empire quite drastically, along with John Burton Race. Pierre Koffman also retired, taking La Tante Claire along with his delicious signature dish of pig’s trotters and morel mushrooms with him, although he has returned briefly for his hugely successful pop up at Selfridges. Reassuringly, the current rumours are that that he will return to the scene very soon.

We’ve seen the rise of the Asian food scene with Alan Yau’s huge successes with Hakkasan and Yauatcha, Zuma and Nobu have rocked the scene for fine Japanese cuisine and A-list hang outs, and more recently the huge success of Nobu Berkeley, a mere 500 yards from its older sister, has proved that a winning idea can be replicated without over-saturation. With the arrival next year of Heston Blumenthal at the Mandarin Oriental alongside Daniel Boulud, the London restaurant scene looks only to be getting even better – so all I can say is “roll on 2010!”


At your service?

Thursday, November 26th, 2009

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We are all accustomed to dining out and having a great time, but when the bill arrives at the end of the evening we have all come to expect that an extra 12.5-15% ‘discretionary’ service charge will be added. Who actually gets this additional percentage has never been clear.  Is it the restaurant or the staff? It’s always seemed to be one of those taboo questions that you don’t really want to bring up at the table; the only time I ever queried the charge was out of interest rather than due to bad service and yet the restaurant manager looked at me like I’d just insulted his mother.

For many years now there have been stories of restaurants using the charge to make up for paying such low wages, which leaves you in the position of having to leave an additional tip for your waiter either out of guilt or pity. It was therefore nice to see the D&D group amongst others abolish this ‘discretionary’ charge at the beginning of October. Despite my hopes that this move would pave the way and others would follow suit, it so far seems that very few restaurants are keen to get rid of the charge.

After a very memorable dinner earlier this year I overheard a diner at the table next to me querying the service charge on the bill. He was dining in a large group and the charge had increased the total by GBP 400. Whilst the manager assured the gentleman that the service charge would go to the waitress, the diner then asked whether it was appropriate that the young lady serving them was tipped more for three hours work than a nurse would earn in a week. A very good question that makes you wonder whether adding service as a percentage of the bill is fair. Are you in fact being penalised for spending more?

I’m the type of person who will always tip the waiter regardless of the service charge but I certainly think a percentage may not be the way to go. I would prefer not to have the service included and instead be able to leave a cash tip and know that it’s going to the right person. Hopefully we will see more restaurants change their policies; I think service will improve as a result.


Brasserie James – South London’s new hotspot?

Wednesday, November 18th, 2009

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There’s nothing more satisfying for me than finding a hidden gem or perhaps an overlooked gem of a restaurant, especially when it turns out to be a stone’s throw from where I live, in the Clapham / Balham borders. Craig James, the talented chef formerly of Quaglino’s and Butlers Wharf, returned to his neighbourhood last year to open Brasserie James. His intention was to create a neighbourhood favourite, and the type of venue he would enjoy going to himself.

With a menu based on that of a typical French brasserie, Craig has brought a few English touches on board and ensures that ingredients are sourced using traditional and ethical British suppliers. As a result, menus change daily to accommodate the best and freshest ingredients available.

Denham Estate red pole steak tartare with pea shoot salad was a delicious opening to the evening and roast red leg partridge with Savoy cabbage, game chips and bread sauce made for a hearty and warming dish on a cold winter’s night, leaving me with just enough room for chocolate fondant with blood orange sorbet. The wine selection was impressive, with a great selection by the glass for those not wanting to go all out.

Monthly tasting dinners are being held and are incredibly popular with locals. November is fully booked already with December going very quickly – at GBP 30pp for 5 courses this must be some of the best value food in town. Brasserie James will certainly become a regular haunt for me from now on.

47 Balham Hill, SW12. www.brasseriejames.com