When the much-anticipated Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester restaurant opened in late 2007, the critical response was less overwhelmingly positive than might have been expected; perhaps, it was felt, M. Ducasse ran the risk of becoming just another absent celebrity chef running an expensive restaurant purely on the strength of his name. The naysayers were first quietened by Michelin awarding the restaurant two stars in 2009 and then completely silenced early in 2010, when it became the second London restaurant (and, at the time of writing, only the fourth nationwide) to have the ultimate accolade of three Michelin stars, an award that Ducasse also holds in Paris at the Plaza Athenee and in Monaco at Le Louis XV.
The question remains, does Ducasse’s restaurant deserve it, or is it just hype? On a recent visit, there was little doubt that, whatever the critics might have carped about on opening, this is a seriously good restaurant, eschewing the fancier and more obscure aspects of high-end Michelin cooking to concentrate on head chef Jocelyn Herland’s sensational cooking, which takes its cue from Ducasse’s belief in using the finest ingredients intelligently and sensitively, but with flair and chutzpah.
Therefore, the menu includes such Ducasse signature dishes as soft-boiled egg and crayfish, fillet of sole meuniere and fillet of beef with seared foie gras Rossini, or alternatively the deeply satisfying tasting menu allows diners to take an odyssey through this high-end cuisine, beginning with a delicate royale of foie gras and pumpkin in a Lapsang Souchon emulsion, and ending, several memorable courses later, with a selection of biscuits and chocolates from a high-class dessert trolley. All are delicious, and are matched by a flawlessly selection of wines by the glass, which concentrate predominantly but not exclusively on French and Old World varieties. For the deep-pocketed, the list offers many rare and precious vintages.
As you would expect from both Alain Ducasse and The Dorchester, service is utterly flawless from start to finish, with the endlessly helpful and friendly staff (one of whom happily mentioned having ‘plenty of champagne’ to celebrate the latest Michelin result) offering the kind of slickly choreographed experience that makes high-end dining such a pleasure. Whether you visit here for the great-value set lunch menu or the full extravagant evening’s delight, this is a must-do for any self-respecting restaurant connoisseur.
The Dorchester, Park Lane, London W1. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com
