Henry Harris might not be a household name, but, as chef-proprietor of Knightsbridge’s excellent Racine, he certainly should be. He founded the restaurant in 2002, and then, after a well-publicised departure to head up the Soho House group’s catering in 2007, returned to Racine the following year, where he has remained ever since. Unusually in the restaurant industry, this was apparently prompted purely by Harris’ love of being a hands-on chef, rather than any dissatisfaction.

A visit to a packed Racine on a cold, rather miserable Monday night in February soon confirms why Harris’ touch has proved so valuable. Virtually opposite the V & A, Racine is certainly in pole position to attract countless casual visitors wanting the French brasserie experience, but this is the real deal; along with the Galvin brothers’ operations and Le Bouchon Breton in Spitalfields, it’s hard to think that you’ll get something closer to a Parisian experience this side of the Channel. Full credit must go to the endlessly accommodating team, whose charm and professionalism make for a winning evening.

If you’ve been to a bistro or brasserie, you’ll know many of the staples already, but almost certainly not this well cooked or prepared. A starter of smoked eel and Alsace bacon was delicious, as was a beautifully presented plate of charcuterie drawn from Pyrenean black pigs. This was followed by a set-piece delight of a cote de boeuf from the local Irish butcher O’Shea’s, which had beautifully marbled fat on the meat to succulent, mouthwatering effect, helped by some near-divine Bearnaise sauce. A decadent side order of creamed spinach with foie gras might be murder on the waistline, but the magnificently melt-in-mouth taste is worth it.

Desserts are of a similarly high standard – a beautifully presented petit pot au chocolat with creme fraiche and the mighty ‘Colonel’, a lemon sorbet served up with a shot of Stolichnya vodka were the highlights – and these are all capably matched by an extensive wine list which, as you’d expect, focuses mainly on French vintages but spans the price range to allow for all budgets.

There are many times that only a really well cooked, well presented and well served feast in a restaurant like this will do. When that time comes, treat yourself – you certainly won’t regret it.

239 Brompton Road, London SW3 www.racine-restaurant.com