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Posts Tagged ‘Italy’

Operatic Excess

Friday, May 21st, 2010

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Puccini’s Tosca, which was first performed in 1900, has deservedly acquired a reputation not just as one of Puccini’s best operas, but as one of the most famous in the world canon. ENO’s new staging, directed by Catherine Malfitano (herself one of the most notable and powerful Toscas of the past couple of decades) is exceptionally well sung, conceived and performed, making this a viscerally satisfying experience that can be recommended even to people who would steer clear of the opera at all costs.

The storyline, based on an obscure 19th century French play, revolves around Rome in 1800, where Italy is being torn between the all-conquering French army, led by Napoleon, and the forces of the Republic. The protagonists are Cavaradossi, a young painter, who is in love with the glamorous singer Tosca. However, the insanely corrupt and licentious chief of police Scarpia is also in love with Tosca, and, seizing an opportunity to blackmail her into exchanging her favours for the life of Cavaradossi, he attempts to right the status quo. Tragedy ensues.

As well as one of Puccini’s richest and most romantic scores (conducted subtly and effectively by ENO’s Edward Gardiner), this features one of his most gloriously hissable villains, in the form of Scarpia, who memorably declares at the end of Act 1, ‘Tosca, you have turned me away from God!’ He is ferociously sung by Anthony Michaels-Moore, whose gusto earned him both cheers and boos on the first night. Amanda Echalaz sings Tosca with both delicacy and force, most notably in her great Act II aria ‘Vissi d’arte, vissi d’amore’, in which she bemoans what appears to be her fate, and Julian Gavin is a charismatic Cavaradossi.

This is a superb production, and a must-see.

Until 10 July. www.eno.org.

Hyde Park Class

Friday, March 19th, 2010

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Heinz Beck is best known for La Pergola, his three Michelin-starred restaurant at Rome’s Cavalieri Hotel, which has attracted an apparently endless amount of acclaim and attention. His first UK venture, Apsleys at the Lanesborough Hotel, was hugely anticipated, and won a Michelin star early in 2010, confirming its reputation as one of London’s top Italian restaurants. It makes a pleasant change for a restaurant in a luxury hotel to take Italian, rather than French, cuisine as its base, although the quality of the cuisine here defies simple pigeonholing.

The first thing that strikes you entering the dining room is how richly ornate and grand it is; the impression is of continental and timeless style rather than the faint impersonality that you often get from hotel restaurants. The second impression you receive is the friendliness and charm of the staff, who seem genuinely pleased that customers  – who, after all, aren’t embarrassed for choice around the Park Lane area – have chosen to visit Apsley’s. And the third, and most vital, is the quality of the cooking.

The a la carte menu includes many of Heinz Beck’s specialities – helpfully marked with an ‘HB’ symbol – or the tasting menu offers a five or seven course overview of the kitchen’s highlights, amongst which a deliciously delicate poached lobster with avocado and tomatoes, a perfect pasta dish of red tortellini with aubergine and smoked ricotta and a tender venison course on a bed of red cabbage are just a few of the star attractions. Unusually but pleasingly, the lightness of the courses mean that the delicate cuisine never becomes overwhelming or de trop. It helps that the wine list – which includes some eye-poppingly expensive and rare vintage wines – has a very good selection by the glass that can be matched to the various dishes.

London isn’t short on top quality Italian restaurants by any means, but if you fancy trying some really innovative and exciting cooking, unafraid to take risks and innovate while remaining entirely true to its roots, there are few better places to try than Apsleys.

The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1. www.thelanesborough.com/apsleys

Babbo, Dulci Babbo

Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010

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Mayfair’s chic Albermarle Street has stealthily become one of London’s top dining streets with the likes of Hix at the Albermarle, the ever-popular Chor Bizarre and now the latest addition, the sleek and decidedly swish Babbo, which has joined the ranks of London’s top Italian restaurants, thanks to the superb cooking of Douglas Santi, whose fine pedigree includes a great deal of work within the Alain Ducasse empire in Monaco, New York, Paris and Las Vegas.

This cosmopolitan experience feeds (sic) into the varied and eclectic menu, which is obviously based very much in the heartland of Italian food, but also of the more modern and cosmopolitan style that any top-flight Italian eaterie needs to cater to. Therefore, amidst such perennial favourites as beef carpaccio and an antipasti selection are scallop medallions with delicately flavoured mash, just as the traditionally carnivorous main courses find themselves lightened by the fillet of Chianina beef, which is served with delicious porcini mushrooms. A side order of perfectly cooked spinach allows this to  feel like an altogether lighter experience. Desserts are of the usual hearty Italian variety, in particular an all-too-tempting chocolate semifreddo.

The wine list specialises in medium and high-end options by the bottle (including a fine 2001 Attilio Ghisolfi Barolo), but there are also some more accessible offerings by the glass. Service is accommodating and friendly,  and visitors are guaranteed to feel welcome and valued.

39-40 Albermarle Street, London W1. www.babborestaurant.co.uk

Italian Class and Chic

Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010

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Situated in a discreetly upmarket street a short walk from St John’s Wood and the legendary Abbey Road, Vineria soon announces itself as a seriously classy destination. Part of a small Italian group, this restaurant is their first outside Italy, and can easily stand comparison with anything else in the UK at the moment. It’s not often that you can go to a restaurant and have your expectations massively exceeded, but the quality and intelligence of the cooking here are guaranteed to do so.

The a la carte menu is short, sensibly chosen, and features superbly cooked and well prepared food. You might start off with a perfect aubergine dish with buffalo mozzarella and basil and tomato sauce or sardines stuffed with anchovies and breadcrumbs, and then follow this with a rich, gutsy pasta dish of tagliatelle with wild mushrooms and black truffle shavings – a pasta dish as good as I’ve had anywhere. If you’ve got room, the main courses of medallions of venison with berries sauce and chestnut-stuffed guinea fowl are both splendid, and a dessert of chocolate mousse with lavender sauce would do credit to any Michelin-starred restaurant. (There’s also a popular Sunday brunch, which features such delights as scrambled eggs with black truffles on toasted bread.)

As you’d expect from a restaurant that has as its motto ‘Vinum Et Cetera’ the wine list is suitably lavish, with everything from sensible, decently priced bottles up to some set-piece Barolos and Barbarescos. There’s also the option to take away wine from the on-site shop, which is a haven for Italian aficionados.

The next time you’re thinking about going to an Italian restaurant, think beyond the West End. You will not be disappointed.

1 Blenheim Terrace, London NW8 www.vineria.it

A True Sicilian Promise

Monday, January 25th, 2010

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Other than Gordon Ramsay and Angela Hartnett’s superb York & Albany and Ian Pengelley’s Gilgamesh, Camden is starved of really excellent places to dine, perhaps a side-effect of being a part of North London more keenly associated with trendy musicians and hip artists than culinary innovation. Three cheers, then, for the excellent Caponata, a superb neighbourhood Italian restaurant that sits on the site of the late, lamented Cafe Delancey, but offers an altogether different culinary experience.

You have a choice of either eating in the informal osteria and bar on the ground floor, which offers delicious and informal snacks and aperitivo bites, or upstairs in the more grown-up dining room, where the cuisine is Sicilian, the service slick and friendly, and the clientele relieved that they have found somewhere as good as this in Camden.

Start with seared scallops with Cavolo Nero or superbly decadent pan-fried quail’s breast with foie gras, and follow it with fettucine and hare ragout or seriously impressive rack of lamb. Whatever you choose, you’re sure to be delighted. The wine list offers a range of unusual and sensibly priced options, including a pleasing amount by the glass, and make sure that you have one of the fine Bellinis to start off what will undoubtedly be a superb meal.

3-7 Delancey St, Camden, NW1 www.caponatacamden.co.uk

Cinema Italiano

Tuesday, January 5th, 2010

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In Nine, Chicago director Rob Marshall’s highly anticipated new film, loosely based on Federico Fellini’s 8 ½, the legendary Daniel Day-Lewis plays the womanising anti-hero Guido Contini. Guido is a highly respected filmmaker whose latest offering is at crisis-point for want of a script, and more importantly, the inspiration to write one.

The opening scenes find him on a covert trip to the seaside, hoping to get the creative juices flowing. This is the cue for the various women in Guido’s life – his wife (Marion Cotillard), his mistress (Penelope Cruz), his muse (Nicole Kidman), his confidante (Judi Dench) and so on – to each offer their own dramatic musical number, serving to illuminate Guido’s journey from precocious boy to a conflicted genius who’s quickly losing his grip on reality.

Cotillard again proves completely mesmerising, stealing the film with two outstanding musical pieces – ‘My Husband Makes Movies’ and ‘Take It All’ – whilst Cruz is also Oscar-worthy for her role as Guido’s sexy, suicidal mistress. As for Day-Lewis, he plays his part with an intelligent, almost ironic self awareness. It’s a role that doesn’t stretch him in every direction, but it never really needs to. The film is at once quirkily cool and captivating, a delirious escape into song and dance that will see you return to reality eventually with a discordant crash.

In cinemas now

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